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The John Lobb brand is a legendary manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a core of the shoe industry in the 17th century. Although it became part of the Hermes Group in 1976, the factory continues to uphold the traditional production process developed in the Victorian era.Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. Specifically, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife touching the cutting table. With feather knives, they carve the leather by hand.
Production is intentionally small, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach gives the sense of one-of-a-kind production. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.
As with Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from young French calf hides. Only 60% of each hide is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The collection combines timeless classics with subtle refinements. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen shoes gained refined buckles and a thicker sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in 1950, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah sneakers, which are released each season in various colors and materials.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb remains a benchmark in English shoemaking.
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